2020 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Franci

Pouring a slightly deeper ruby-tinged hue, the 2020 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva Franci is gorgeous on the nose, with fresh blackberries, black cherries, espresso crema, cigar box, and anise. The palate is full-bodied yet light on its feet, with plush, ripe tannins, refreshing acidity, and terrific overall balance that keeps it energetic all the way through the finish. It’s a beautifully polished Riserva that brings richness without ever turning heavy or overdone. Drink 2027-2047. Fabio Tassi very well may be the unofficial mayor of Montalcino. He has grown his family estate from what originated as a beekeeping business. In addition to the winery, he owns and operates two restaurants in the town of Montalcino, Drogheri Franci and La Sosta, as well as the wine shop nestled inside the Fortezza. At each of these establishments, he champions the winemakers across the region and explores those wines that are not often found in the rural areas of Tuscany. The wines he is making are not to be scoffed at either and deserve recognition in their own right as he continues to evolve and push the bar higher. The wines display a great deal of clarity, and while sometimes on the ripe side, find balance and refinement. This year the wines were tasted several times, once alongside Fabbio’s daughter, Fiamma Tassi, who has officially joined her family estate. In the spirit of this family, who is constantly pushing outside of their comfort zone, we tasted an experiment of Trebbiano from 2025, which was fermented in equal parts Tava terracotta and stainless steel, prior to it going into barrel. While I don’t think it’s appropriate to score it here (though quite tasty indeed), it speaks volumes to the childlike curiosity they bring to their work, while simultaneously fine-tuning the core portfolio.