2006 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru

Originating in the contiguous crus of Gorseilles, Gruenchers, Noirots and Baudes, Bertheaus' 2006 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru features the same raspberry and red currant as its village counterpart, but with lily-like sweet floral perfume as well as citrus oils adding allure. Juicy, vivacious and sleek, it's another Bertheau instance of white wine- (almost Riesling-)like behavior, an impression not in the least diminished by the strong sense of wet stone undertow on exhibit that helps to show-off the wine's bright fruit and high-toned virtues. The zesty finishing notes here segue into a distinct sense of fine tannins pleasantly and invigoratingly impinging on the palate. Expect to derive huge satisfaction from this over the next 5-7 years. Francois Bertheau seemed to shrug-off the challenges of hail and rot in 2006 with the comment: "Triage is normal practice for us." Already in 2008, he professed not to recall when he had picked 2006s, but assured me that "it took four days, as usual," Bertheau also professed to essentially the same fermentative and aging regimen as in other years (for more about which, consult my report in issue 171). You can't argue with the results – though some purists may object to relatively high levels of volatile acidity that are for me part and parcel of the bright, penetrating house style – even if these wines do not approach the quality of the estate's exceptional 2005s. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524