2018 Terra di Lavoro

Full bottle 1,350 g. New UK importer Justin Knock MW writes, 'Allegra Selvaggia, daughter of one of Galardi's two co-founders, has taken over the running of the estate with a deep commitment to raising both quality and the perception of quality in international markets. She has painstakingly reshaped the approach to key export markets, and after a three-year absence from the UK we are delighted to represent Terra di Lavoro back on these shores. Under her direction this is now the only wine made at the estate, found on the volcanic slopes of Roccamonfina in northern Campania. First produced in 1994 and still under the guiding hand of consulting winemaker Riccardo Cotarella, it set its stall out championing indigenous varieties and a distinctive style highlighting Campania's volcanic soils – all during an era when international varieties and winemaking methods were ascendant. A blend of Aglianico (80%) and Piedirosso (20%), Terra di Lavoro is a style that highlights the inky depths of Campania yet reminds us of the tannic texture of the Medoc. It is difficult to think of any other wines quite like it, but its ability to integrate concepts in this way reminds me of Domaine Trevallon, an outlier within its region that has created something unique and widely loved.' Vines grown at 400 m near an old volcano. Transparent, blackish rust red. Intriguingly mature-but-edgy nose. I know I'm not supposed to smell volcanic but it certainly has a fiery mineral quality. Only medium weight with the refinement of Aglianico. Quite a bit of tannin still on the palate – I wonder whether just a tad too much in view of the aromatic evolution? But there is lots of rather majestic pleasure here – especially for fans of Aglianico, like me. Certainly a very firm backbone. (JR)