2017 Nierstein Pettenthal Trocken
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Tasting notes
This bottling (which fetched 950 euros at auction) delivers scents and tangy palate ping of zesty tangerine and seedy red raspberry, suggesting a mingling of classic Pettenthal traits with those of a Middle Nahe Riesling. There is, if anything, even more amazing brightness here than conveyed by the corresponding Hipping, which, when taken together with black tea smokiness, berry seed crunch and piquancy of citrus peel and seeds, makes for a striking degree of invigoration and animation. The vibrantly gripping finish conveys admirable refreshment, albeit tempered by an almost severe sense of sheer concentration, incorporating pronounced piquancy and striking smokiness. This tightly coiled bottling really deserves time. “I believe that it is the more valuable [ wertvoller ] of the two,” opined Keller. “It’s logical that Hipping would be more approachable,” he added, “given that there is more fine particulate matter in the soil than in the sheer stony Pettenthal.”
Critic scores
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
At first, this is incredibly smoky and herbal on the nose. Then, with aeration, the grapefruit and wild-berry notes come through. There’s incredible poise on the palate, calling to mind a prima ballerina’s seemingly effortless stance on the tip of her toes, and enormous finesse right through the super-long finish. Very long aging potential. Try in 2019.
To be bottled August 2018 and auctioned September 2018. 38-year-old vines. 2 t/ha. The most noticeably reductive/smoky of the wines so far, or is it that fumy character of wild ferment? Julia Keller says it is because of the use of the basket press (100% in this wine). This has a wild minerality, an adventurous spirit, an untamed quality. All those qualities reflected on the palate, extreme wild smokiness and a herbal fumy richness. Highly distinctive and may not appeal to those who want more primary citrus in their Riesling. So smoky and mineral like something that comes from deep underground. Unbelievable intensity, freshness and length. This is stunning but needs time. If I had not had to taste another wine soon after, the taste would have stayed in my mouth for ages. The winemaking choices are showing in youth but it will be the site that is revealed with time in bottle. (JH)
About the producer
Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller is one of the finest Riesling producers in the world, and has set the benchmark for German Pinot Noir.