2017 Scharzhofberger 'P' Pergentsknopp Riesling Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Following on the heels of a superb 2016, this year’s Pergentsknopp bottling leads with a pungent amalgam of chervil, smoky black tea and crushed mustard seed that suggests a take-no-prisoners attitude. The feel is firm but polished, and the finish is energetically sizzling and gripping, evoking crushed stone, black tea, ash and piquant fruit kernels. The personality here flirts with austerity, though the combination of buoyancy (at only around 12% alcohol) and primary juiciness keeps things sensually satisfying and inviting of the next sip. (The label here follows by now long-standing estate practice in displaying a prominent capital “P,” but small print now identifies the Pergentsknopp, now officially a VDP “Grosse Lage.”)
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
The 2017 Scharzhofberger P Riesling GG is highly refined and complex on the nose that intermingles dusty notes of crushed stones with lemon oil, flinty aromas and even peppery notes. Very concentrated yet pretty ethereal, like perfume on (or from?) the rocks. Crystalline and lean, this is a very fine and elegant yet lush, beautifully balanced and tonic Pergentsknopp; it is precise and focused, with lots of lemon and salty flavors. This is like a great Côte de Blanc Champagne from the Saar, just with Riesling instead of bubbles. A damn great wine and the best I have ever tasted here in 15 years. Tasted from AP #20 in June 2019.
Fresh, cool and invigorating from the first intake of breath to the last impression on a long finish. Taste the salt, inhale the herbs, feel the grip. Compact, tactile, truly dry – a monument. (MS)