2006 Saarburger Rausch Spatlese

Destined for auction, the 2006 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spatlese A.P. #2 is vividly redolent of pineapple and pink grapefruit, and saturated with saline and crushed stone sensations of minerals. Subtle smokiness wreathes this in a bit of botrytis-tinged mystery. With even more wafting delicacy if less sheer refreshment or textural richness than the A.P. #3, this was, by Zilliken’s own admission “vinified on the edge, with 90 grams of residual sugar. While the minerality and acidity can just handle that, the A.P. #3 actually shows greater vivacity. This is a wine to cellar.” I would say do so for as long as 25 years. “You’ll see” – or rather, taste – says Hanno Zilliken, “we had very little botrytis here. But, the bunches were really tiny. I had no problem with ruptured grapes, or with getting wines straight as an arrow.” He harvested rapidly, beginning the 9th of October. “I have to be honest, though,” he continues, “We turned away from risking too much. We were shocked – or at least frightened – by the news we were hearing from other German regions about rotting and acetic grapes. The weather was crappy: I mean, humid and overcast, with a troubling forecast. With a few warm days we selected. But the material was no longer stable. I had the feeling the fruit was exhausted.” So in the end we have wonderful wines this year, but nothing approaching the vast array of elixirs one associates with this address in other top vintages. Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; (800) 596-9463