2018 Kinheimer Rosenberg Auslese (3 Star) GK

Here is the first instance in Molitor’s 2018 collection where I catch a decided suggestion of botrytis, on a high-toned, pricklingly penetrating nose featuring peach and quince preserves, mango and banana, garlanded in rowan and accented by sharp spiciness, citric zest and dusty smokiness. The palate impression is opulently rich and glossy, and the almost gaudy fruit character is reinforced by sweetness more prominent than one usually anticipates from a Molitor “gold chip” Auslese. From somewhere, though, the wine manages to draw on a hidden reserve of fresh peach juiciness to help keep the aggressively penetrating, indubitably multifaceted finish from becoming cloying. For a full demonstration of Kinheim prowess, one just needs some patience.