2000 Ruchottes Chambertin

The 2000 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru from Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg is very pretty, and while it lacks some of the depth and purity one finds in vintages from 2002 onward, it's a success in a difficult year. A high-toned bouquet of strawberry, orange rind, espresso roast and dried herbs precedes a velvety, full-bodied wine that is quite lavish and expansive, with nice energy and focus, finishing with stony grip. This is drinking very well, so now is a good time to start pulling corks.

Slightly sludgy ruby. Liquorice and wet stones on the nose. A little severe and drying. Maybe this is just too youthful? But it’s not giving that much pleasure at the moment. Distinctly drying on the end. Edgy and a bit uncomfortable. (JR)

Next up was a magnificent flight of Ruchottes-Chambertin from Mugneret, all served from jeroboam. I was a little surprised that that Ruchottes were served before the Chambolle-Musigny Les Feusselottes as they were decidedly richer wines. The 1998 and 1992 Ruchottes came across as the most complete wines in the grouping. The 1998 Ruchottes-Chambertin was rich, dense and full-bodied, with surprising depth and tons of fruit. The 1992 was much more ethereal and delicate, but equally impressive in its overall balance. Worn-in leather, sweet spices, red fruit and underbrush came to life in this weightless, transparent Burgundy. The 2000 showed good balance in a mid-weight style. Though still quite fresh, the wine’s concentration came across as relatively modest and probably not suited to lengthy cellaring. The 1997 revealed gorgeous inner perfume in a vibrant, medium-bodied style.