2006 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Alte Reben

Niewodniczanski’s 2006 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Alte Reben – from centenarian vines – was still in barrel when I tasted it late last summer, and destined for somewhat later than usual release. (Beginning with his 2007s, he has declared his intention to release his top wines only after 9-12 months in bottle.) Fermentative residues gradually dissipate, revealing aromas of mint, peach, and yellow plum along with strawberry and raspberry. The pit and red fruit flavors have tiny-berried concentration, with high-toned, ester-rich, distilled fruit overtones. While not flatteringly creamy in the manner of so many of the Van Volxem wines, this has palpable richness of extract and a firm sense of underlying structure, yet its long finish is luscicous and generously-fruited as well as smoky in its suggestion of minerality from these iron-rich soils. It should develop well for more than a decade and is almost certainly showing only some of its potential. For further details on quality-fanatic Roman Niewodniczanski, his unique methods, unprecedented acreage of old vines, and distinctive style of wine, readers are encouraged to consult Issues 163 and 167. Niewodniczanski puts great stock by what he believes to be the Saar’s inherent tendency, when there is botrytis, to have noble botrytis. But 2006 certainly subjected his hypothesis to hard testing, and in fact he admits to having – in typically fanatic and cost-oblivious “Niewo” fashion – to having had his crew “cut apart and inspect all of the bunches over an 18 hectare area, because there were always two or three little berries that are spoiled and that’s how trouble starts.” Predictably, too, no fining of any sort was performed on the musts. A new basket press was utilized for virtually all of the single-vineyard wines. Importers include Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. (888) 274-4312 and Acid Inc Selections, New York, NY; tel. (817) 687-4848