2014 Ockfener Bockstein Zickelgarten Spatlese
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Tasting notes
The 2014 Ockfener Bockstein Spätlese (#10) displays a clear, concentrated and piquant honey bouquet that indicates some botrytis flavors. This Spätlese is racy, piquant and round on the palate, though it does not shine and reveals a certain phenolic and drying structure in the finish.
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Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
David Schildknecht, Vinous
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A bit of fruit from the Zickelgarten found its way into this year's "regular" Bockstein Spätlese, but here we have a bottling – destined for auction – dedicated to and labeled for that monopole. Most of the fruit for this was botrytis-free, the ennobled grapes having informed an Auslese. Vinification and maturation were split between tank and cask. An unusual nose mingles celery and green pepper with apple and honeydew. The subtly creamy and expansive palate delivers apple jelly and banana for an odd and exotic contrast to the aromas. The finish is dominated by its sweetness and lacks any mineral dimension (other than a bit of celery-stalk salinity) or much juiciness. I'm not sure what to make of this but will try to re-taste it soon in hope that it had simply not yet gotten its act together on my first encounter.