2009 Barolo San Rocco

Site-specific characteristics of bold black fruit and tight structure are definitely on display in the 2009 Barolo San Rocco. Earthy shadings and even a touch of white truffle give the wine a very attractive, savory and rich personality. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2028. Here’s a story that so faithfully represents the ideological shift from father to son, you could play it on continuous loop across the territory of the Langhe. In perfect protocol with local traditions, the last three generations of the Scavino family are Lorenzo (grandfather), Luigi (father) and Lorenzo (son). Lorenzo (grandfather) watched in horror as a young and rambunctious Luigi announced his intention to drop fruit in the vineyard with an eye on producing quality wine. To Lorenzo’s World War II generation, reducing yields was a mental leap of impossible proportions. Fast-forward to today and Lorenzo (son) is the custodian of that patrimony of knowledge and experience accrued over the years. Founded in 1920 (over five generations), Azelia has 16 hectares and recently acquired a half-hectare parcel adjacent to their San Rocco vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba. The average age of their vines is 55 to 60 years old. I was greatly impressed with all the wines in the Azelia presentation and think this is a winery to watch carefully in the coming years. Luigi Scavino purchased the San Rocco vineyard in 1993 (after many sacrifices) because he always loved Serralunga d’Alba Barolo. Various American Importers, including: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; The Vintner Group, Ashland, VA; tel. (804) 752-3670; Epic Wines, Capitola, CA; tel. (800) 322-3742

The estate's 2009 Barolo San Rocco emerges with an intriguing bouquet that melds into a core of red fruit, spices, and crushed flowers. Some of the weight of Serralunga comes through, but here too, the pedigree of this site struggles to emerge. The immediacy of the fruit will provide good drinking for a few years, but not likely beyond.