2018 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Spatlese

Smoky and stony notes vie for attention with scents of very ripe pear and pink grapefruit, banana and mango. That gaudy fruitiness is accentuated by prominent sweetness on a flatteringly silken, subtly glossy palate, but there is just enough sense of juiciness to convey a refreshingly sorbet-like impression. Like its Niederberg Helden counterpart, this finishes with a wafting sense of delicacy, but here there is the aforementioned refreshment, the sweetness is better integrated, and a nip of ginger and hint of nutty piquancy lend a welcome modicum of invigoration.