2018 Kiedricher Grafenberg Trockenbeerenauslese
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Tasting notes
Peach and mirabelle jam dominate on the nose, joining brown sugar and caramel in a ridiculously viscous inner-mouth display. Just as with this year’s Turmberg TBA, this concentrate comes off as too embryonic – or else too high in sheer desiccated berry concentration – to adequately assess where it’s headed; and the citric and mineral elements that helped render the corresponding gold capsule BA so memorable aren’t present here. But this concentrate’s purity, along with its sheer penetrant persistence, is remarkable, and the mouth is left tingling, with less of the stickiness that accrued to the Turmberg TBA. Time – but possibly only a lot of it – will bring a clearer picture and permit judgment as to just how great a monument to its vintage, site and producer we have here.
Critic scores
Average Score
James Suckling
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
The 2018 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Trockenbeerenauslese Gold Capsule (Auction) is a viscous, almost oily, highly concentrated and sweet yet fresh and refined TBA with fine phenolics and a long and stimulating salty finish. The nose is concentrated but fresh and pure, with highly aromatic stone fruit aromas. This is a legend, and it seems even fresher than the regular TBA, although it is more concentrated.
A gently spicy thread here with all manner of fresh fruit thatâs just so ripe. This offers very intense mangoes and apricots with peach essence and gentle candied kumquat. The palate is like a perfect sphere of flavor, completely seamless. This is melded together by an extraordinary vintage and delivered to the greatest heights of sweetness and balance. Really a perfect wine. Drink over decades.