2011 Bual Colheita Blandy's

Bottled 2024. Expressive rancio complexity on the nose, with a whisky-smoke note that evokes Islay in the most delicious and compelling way (but without the spirity burn!). The finish is cleansed by wonderful acid that isn't just giving balance but enlivening the flavour profile, keeping it youthful. (RH)

Tasted from a 50-cl mini sample. Bual grapes from Calheta. Aged in the canteiro system, in 650-litre casks at room temperature until bottling. TA 6.4 g/l, VA 0.48 g/l, RS 95 g/l, pH 3.36. 2,933 75-cl bottles. Harvest and winemaker Francisco Albuquerque. One of Blandy's 2024 releases. Like sunrise, like a slow uncurling from the earth, it's a wine that starts with shadows and moves to light. From leather and chocolate browns, mace and nutmeg duskiness, and raisin mahoganies, the wine starts to slowly flood with streaks of red and orange, brightening with every second: chocolate orange, paprika spice, dried orange peel, candied citrus peel, blood orange. It finishes lifted and sunlit bright: tarragon and lemon-barley water. It's a wine that deserves slow, watchful sipping. Watch the sun rise through the glass. (TC)

The 2011 Bual Colheita Single Harvest comes from Calheta on Madeira Island and delivers 95g/L residual sugar with 6.4g/L total acidity. This is powerful on the nose, though perhaps it doesn't fully possess the refinement I find in the 2011 Verdelho. This comes across as a little more oxidative in style, with grilled walnuts and a touch of cigar humidor. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth texture and fine acidity. It's harmonious with a deft touch of stem ginger, white pepper and a tangy Seville orange marmalade on the finish. I actually find more on the palate than aromatically on this release. Fine. 2,933 bottles released.