2023 Oberhauser Leistenberg Kabinett

Dönnhoff's 2023 Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett is clear, bright and aromatic on the nose that shows just-ripe fruit aromas intermingled with wet clay and slate notes. Round and quite sweet but still delicate on the palate, this is a light and fruity, savory and stimulating Kabinett that comes in with 9% stated alcohol. Screw cap. Tasted in October 2024.

The 2023 Riesling Oberhäuser Leistenberg Kabinett is from a south-east-facing site of shale, getting the morning sun; this is never affected by botrytis and is shaded in the afternoon, so a late harvest is possible because botrytis never occurs, and acids are preserved. The nose combines lemon zest, stone and herbal tisane. The palate adds just a little sweetness, giving the charm to the citric verve, but all remains light, tender, bright and so deceptively easy. What a tease, what elegance, what lemon resonance! (Medium)

Grosse Lage. Delicate flowers and cooling spice, apricot stone and appley goodness. Citrus purity over an elegantly astringent core. Thrilling balance of sweetness and acidity, moving the needle ever so slightly in the direction of racy. Elegant and weightless. (PS)