2017 Meursault Genevrieres

The 2017 Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru is a relatively new offering from Drouhin. The vineyard includes vines of differing ages, so it was picked over three different days. In fact, it was the first white to be picked, starting on August 30 and finishing on September 6. It has a delightful bouquet of orange blossom, tangerine and light lemon peel aromas. The palate is well balanced with a citrus-driven entry that then segues into a taut, crisp, lightly spiced midpalate, with nutmeg and walnut emerging toward the finish.

The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières offers up notes of crisp orchard fruit, pastry cream, white flowers and a delicate framing of new wood. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, elegant and precise, with a satiny attack, deep but open-knit core and a pure finish. It's a lovely Genevriéres in the making.

A new source for Drouhin – three parcels picked on different days (the first was picked on 30 August). Cask sample. Cedar and spice on the nose, tangled with the lemon and lime fruit. Gorgeous purity and intensity, streamlined, intense rather than rich. Mouth-watering purity of grapefruit and just a touch of cedary spice to complete the circle. (JH)