2009 Monzinger Halenberg Grosses Gewachs

The Schonleber 2009 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs captures a marvelous sense of primary juiciness of grapefruit, pineapple, lime, honeydew melon, and white peach such as one seldom encounters in its genre, and holds this through a finish of consummate refreshment and gravity-defying levity. At the same time, there is a complexity of mineral elements here that leaves you scratching your head; a silken texture and glycerin-richness that leave your palate seductively soothed; and tart fruit skin as well as subtly bitter fruit pit notes that add to an insistent sense of invigoration. Elder flower, narcissus, and orange blossom contribute an alluring floral dimension that wafts all the way through the long finish. An unforgettable purity of fruit, transparency to mineral and floral nuances, and levity such as one scarcely encounters among Grosse Gewachse should keep this remarkable Riesling a source of riveting fascination for the next 12-15 years. Werner and Frank Schonleber harvested through nearly the entire month of October, and noted that levels of sugar and total acidity remained fairly constant, while flavors kept improving and malic acid diminishing in favor of tartaric. Speaking of improving, it’s hard for these two vintners to much-improve their by now phenomenal batting average, but no Riesling lover is likely to suffer the least disappointment by buying bottles of Emrich-Schonleber 2009s. Especially at its dry end, this is a collection to describe which seems to call for an extended mineral vocabulary that doesn’t even exist in English or German! And in nobly sweet echelons, the small amount of Riesling the Schonlebers rendered is strikingly successful and informed by an ample if mysterious measure of sheer juiciness. About the absence of Eiswein, Frank Schonleber notes: “We had the feeling that ripeness had simply advanced too far in 2009 to justify leaving any grapes hanging in anticipation of frost.” Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389- 9463

It would be almost futile to describe this wine in terms of fruit, though aromas reminiscent of grapefruit and yellow stone fruit may be detected. It is hard to single out constituents of flavour, when the class of this wine expresses itself in elegance, structure and harmony of components. Smoky and minerally could also describe a great Burgundy, but the tactile edge of à point acidity is one of the hallmarks of Riesling. As is of course the absence of wood! In intensity and concentration of flavours the Halenberg is almost unrivalled, it’s about feel as much as it is about taste. Hall of fame!

More spice and riper citrus on the nose than the Frühlingsplätzchen GG, slightly dampened by a note of minerally reduction just now but opening out to become more scented. Firm like the Frühlingsplätzchen but more masculine in its power and weight, yet still with fine acidity and finesse to the end. A little more savoury, even slightly salty. Not quite as pointedly fresh as the Halenberg though the acidity may be similar. Fuller in the mouth. (JH)