2010 Gevrey Chambertin Cuvee Bertin

The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvee Bertin is rich, dark and sensual. Black cherries, plums, spices and minerals are some of the notes that are woven into this generous, textured wine. The Cuvee Bertin finds a higher, brighter register on the mid-palate and finish. This is a beautifully poised, elegant Gevrey. The Cuvee Bertin was made with 40% whole clusters. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Virgile Lignier began his harvest on September 24. Potential alcohols came in between 11.8 and 14%. The wines under 12.5% were lightly chaptalized by about a half degree. I tasted all of the 2010s from tank, where they were resting in anticipation of bottling, which was scheduled to start this January. Virgile Lignier told me he was quite surprised by the quality of the 2010s, especially the ripeness of the tannins. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

(from 44- and 47-year-old selection massale vines): Very good dark red. Raisiny and simple on the nose, even a bit tired. Very ripe and fat in the mouth; fresher than the nose suggests but I wanted more primary fruit. Finishes with a dry edge. This fruit may have been picked too late.