2018 Oberhauser Brucke Auslese
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Tasting notes
Like its Hermannshöhle counterpart, this Auslese, picked in mid-October, reflects genuinely botrytis-free grapes, related Dönnhoff, but ones that were too numerous and too high in sugar to have used them elsewhere, “and certainly not in the Grosses Gewächs, which would then have ended up with 14% alcohol.” Quince and red raspberry jellies coolingly infused with honeysuckle and green herbs inform the nose and the soothingly, seductively creamy palate. There is a lovely sense of lift throughout, but especially on the finish, whose liqueur-like sense of fruit and herbal essences is reinforced by prominent sweetness. If this fails to exhibit the sense of clarity and animation of the corresponding Hermannshöhle, Dönnhoff suggested that that reflects the absolutely optimum bunches in the Brücke having been left hanging for what became a Beerenauslese.
Critic scores
Average Score
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
The 2018 Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Auslese is perfectly clear and fresh but still intense and concentrated on the spicy and complex nose. Lush and piquant on the palate, this is a fresh, stunningly pure and playful Brücke that is singing and dancing on the knife's edge. Fabulous in its purity, tension and finesse. Nevertheless, there is the ripeness you can expect from an Auslese. Tasted in July 2019.
This is a very contrastive sweet wine with sliced melon, white peaches and honey. Dried fruit. Full-bodied yet compact and tight, giving it an agile tension. Fresh and energetic acidity. Salted caramel aftertaste. Great wine. One for the cellar. 1,200 bottles. Drink now or hold.
Not yet anlaysed but probably RS 110–118 g/l. Even greater citrus purity here than on the Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Auslese. Full of pure apricot fruit, sweet but harmonious. Generously fruited and really exotic. Indulgent. (JH)