1999 Chambolle Musigny Les Cras

Ghislaine Barthod's 1999 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras is finally beginning to enter its plateau of maturity, opening in the glass with a deep bouquet of cassis, red cherry, roasted venison and dried flowers. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and rock-solid at the core, with a voluminous chassis of fine-grained tannins. Incredibly concentrated and persistent, the Les Cras is of grand cru quality. It goes from strength to strength with air, so I'd advise opening it several hours before service.

Good dark red. Alluring aromas of black raspberry, licorice, truffle and underbrush. Wonderfully silky, full-bodied wine with harmonious acidity framing its flavors of raspberry, mocha, spices and earth. This very refined wine is evolving gracefully and is just on the cusp of decadence. Most impressive today on the very long, rising, penetrating finish, which features firm but suave tannins and terrific sap and grip. The wine's fresh finishing rocky minerality suggests that it will continue to improve for another 12 to 15 years. In fact, Ghislaine Barthod told me that she's not drinking her '99s yet.