2021 Kevin John Chardonnay
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Tasting notes
Fermented in oak, concrete eggs and amphorae. Aged for eight months in French oak puncheons (35% new). Tasted blind. Whatever makes Chardonnay magic, this has got it. Sublime combination of generous fruit, ground spice, feathery texture that seems to keep the flavour gripped to the palate and a broad complexity of cereal and seashell flavours. A four-part harmony Chardonnay. (RH)
Critic scores
Average Score
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
The 2021 Kevin John Chardonnay is characteristically aligned with the 2017 and 2019 vintages here; although the conditions were quite distinct between the three, I see them as fitting in between the warmer, drier, even vintages placed on either side of them (i.e., 2016, 2018, 2020 and 2022). There's energy and electricity here, real race and pace as the acidity and phenolics interlock, or clasp, through the finish. It's streamlined and powerful, and while this offers much pleasure now, it will likely continue to do so for many years to come. Warmly recommended. 13.7% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.
Buttery nose that is super-Chardonnay in style, delicious overripe apricot and oak spice too. Retains high acid despite the ripe fruit and full body. (RH)
A lovely nose of chamomile tea, lemon curd, crushed thyme and grated nutmeg. Medium-bodied with supple texture. Fresh and bright with an apple and fruit character. Steady acidity. Charming, savory spice comes at the finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold. Screw cap.