2010 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Cuvee Jules

The 2010 Chambolle-Musigny Cuvee Jules is gorgeous for its fleshiness and open, accessible personality. Freshly cut flowers, sweet red berries and spices are woven together nicely in this supple, easygoing Chambolle. The Cuvee Jules is made from parcels in Feusselottes and Sentiers. Anticipated maturity: 2014- 2025. Virgile Lignier began his harvest on September 24. Potential alcohols came in between 11.8 and 14%. The wines under 12.5% were lightly chaptalized by about a half degree. I tasted all of the 2010s from tank, where they were resting in anticipation of bottling, which was scheduled to start this January. Virgile Lignier told me he was quite surprised by the quality of the 2010s, especially the ripeness of the tannins. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Oak more noticeable than in other cuvées. Dark fruit, fine-grain tannins. Fragrant and expressive. (RH)

(just two barrels made, from very small grapes from old vines in Feusselottes and Sentiers; 80% vendange entier ): Good bright, deep red. Very ripe aromas of brambly blackberry, raspberry and mocha, plus a whiff of mint. Densely packed, sappy and savory, showing more mineral and soil character than primary fruits today. Dry and classic wine with serious tannic spine, but is it fresh enough? I look forward to following this rather idiosyncratic wine in bottle. The yield here was just 28 hectoliters per hectare, according to Lignier.