2009 St Aubin Blanc En Remilly

The 2009 St. Aubin En Remilly is the most minerally and nuanced of these 2009 St. Aubins. It possesses gorgeous precision in an understated, graceful style that is very pretty. This is an exquisite wine that also happens to be one of the very finest values in white Burgundy. It is a staple at my house.

The 2009 St. Aubin En Remilly is the most minerally and nuanced of these 2009 St. Aubins. It possesses gorgeous precision in an understated, graceful style that is very pretty. This is an exquisite wine that also happens to be one of the very finest values in white Burgundy. It is a staple at my house. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is one of Burgundy’s most exciting young producers. Colin-Morey works with six hectares of vineyards, three of which are estate owned, while the rest are sources of purchased fruit. According to Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, the key to 2009 was picking early. The harvest started on the September 4. Colin-Morey did a long, slow press, with no batonnage once the wines were in barrel, all with the aim of preserving as much freshness as possible given the natural ripeness of the fruit. Roughly 80% of the wines were aged in 350-liter barrels, larger than the norm in Burgundy. Colin-Morey finished bottling the 2009s in April 2011. Colin-Morey told me he wasn’t enthused about the 2009s at first, but now thinks the wines have enough freshness to age well. A Daniel Johnnes Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; also imported by Bertin Henri Selections, 10900 N.W. 21st Street, Unit 180, Doral, Florida 33172 tel: (305) 343-4054

Now we're getting to what Colin-Morey really has to offer the world! Great class on the nose – just a hint of liquorice and struck matches – very bright fruit and limpidity. So succulent! Just so neat and satisfying. Open and broachable even though there is lots still to come out of this tightly packed cabbage with layer after layer. Great nobility and purity. Really quite a bargain. Perhaps not quite wonderful enough on the finish for an even higher score. (JR)