2018 Falstaff Pinot Noir

Coming from a vineyard on the Sonoma Coast and not destemmed, the 2018 Pinot Noir Falstaff Vineyard is unquestionably one of the softer, more approachable wines in the lineup. Wild strawberry, passion fruits, violets, and rose petal notes all emerge from the glass, and this pretty, supple, elegant effort has rounded tannins, a great texture, and outstanding length. It also happens to be the lowest in alcohol in the lineup at 12.5%. Drink it any time over the coming 8-10 years. Jamie Kutch continues to make a savory, almost Old World style of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In general, these are structured, tannic wines, and short-term cellaring is advised.

Another gorgeous wine in this range, the 2018 Pinot Noir Falstaff Vineyard is beautifully perfumed, lifted and gracious. Sweet red cherry, blood orange, mint, spice and a touch of whole cluster brightness all grace this exquisite Pinot from Jamie Kutch. The 100% stems are already very well-integrated. This is such a captivating, finessed wine.

Falstaff is 8.2 miles (13 km) from the ocean at 505 feet (155 m) but, because it sits in a particularly foggy pocket, the Kutchs describe it as 'easily our coldest site. In 1999 owners Ron and Judy Lougheed planted the Goldridge soils to three different clones of Pinot Noir. Today they have managed to cultivate some of the most intense and smallest clusters of fruit we receive. With berries often the size of peas, our tiny yields are often below 1 ton per acre and while economics are challenged, the quality is bountiful.' Made the same way as the Sonoma Coast blend. Picked on 1 October. 22 barrels produced. Morello cherries on the nose of this wine that should probably be tasted before the richer McDougall Ranch Pinot. Rather a delicate wine which, for some reason, seems less marked by whole-bunch freshness – perhaps because of the mineral zestiness from the site itself. It certainly vindicates Jamie Kutch's single-vineyard approach because it is so distinctively different from the rest. Very fine-grained. But not too freighted by tannin, so it could be enjoyed already, with or without food. Sinewy. (JR)