2020 Arbois Trousseau Berangers

Full bottle 1,296 g. Since vintage 2018, this iconic parcel, previously farmed by Jacques Puffeney (the 'Pope of Arbois'), has been part of Domaine du Pélican. Montigny-lès-Arsures, the small village where their winery and this Arbois Béranger parcel are located, is the capital of Trousseau, much in the same way as Pupillin is the capital of Poulsard. Biodynamic farming. The soil is made of alluvium and silt over grey marls, stony enough to allow good drainage. This soil composition – alluvium and silt over grey marls and stony enough for good drainage – is particularly appropriate for Trousseau. The vines are over 50 years old. South and south-west exposure and elevation of 300–330 m ensure good maturation. Ageing was in 350-litre and 500-litre barrels. No new oak. Bottled January 2022 after longer in barrel than in previous vintages. Lightish cherry red with some blue in the colour. Seductive, smoky sour-cherry aroma. Stony/mineral too. Chewy tannins are wrapped around sweet but not overly sweet red fruit. Just slightly peppery (flavour and texture) and intensely fresh. The tannins may be chewy but they are like many layers of fine paper not in the least astringent. Long finish that is quite tannic for now and needs time (and food). So moreish. (JH)