2004 Zeltinger Himmelreich Eiswein

The Selbach’s 2004 Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Eiswein, harvested on the same 22nd of December as were so many other 2004s, smells piercingly of peach jam, lemon oil, and fresh tangerine. In the mouth this wine continues its penetrating course, reaching all corners with salty, bright, citric, candied flavors that are utterly invigorating. And yet, there is a still, meditative side to this wine as well. You take another sip and perceive a quiet, frozen pool of fruit concentrate on a ledge of slate. Such is the definition of true complexity, not to mention value: you get more than one wine for the price! Don’t ask me how many lives this will have in your cellar. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300