2002 Sancerre La Grande Cote

Minerals can be found in the shy aromas of the 2002 Vin de Table Chavignol La Grande Cote. Produced from over 70 year-old vines, this is a wine of stupendous depth and concentration. Its dense core reveals flavors reminiscent of mineral liqueur, slate, flint, oil, pears, and spices. Hugely phenolic, this medium to full-bodied behemoth also proudly displays an amazingly long finish that is awash in liquefied stones. Projected maturity: 2006-2014. Bravo! As I shook my head in wonderment as to why so few Sancerre producers made wines such as these, one of the tasting’s attendees said, “as long as there are millions of English wishing to drink cat pee Sancerre will produce over cropped wines.” Note: Francois Cotat’s Sancerres were all declassified to Vin de Table status by the French authorities because he chaptalized one lot that was harvested at 12.25 natural potential alcohol (all the others were over 13% natural and were not chaptalized). The law forbids any adding of sugar in a cellar with lots above a certain degree, not taking into account the fact that some may be higher than others. A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93, various American importers including Importer: A David Schildknecht Selection, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH; tel. (513) 229-3630; North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; tel. (781) 395-3300; and Import!, Madison, WI; tel. (608) 255-8622