2011 Meursault

Roulot's 2011 Meursault fleshes out beautifully in the glass. A round, seamless wine, the 2011 captures the open, generous personality of the year. Succulent yellow fleshed fruits, flowers and spices all ring out in an expressive Meursault with tons of early appeal. The vineyard sources are Gruyaches, Crotots and Clos de La Baronne.

The maiden 2011 Meursault Village comes from three parcels including Clos de la Baronne, his fermage acquired from Domaine Manuel that is shared equally with Dominique Lafon, augmented with parcels in Cotot and Gruyaches. (Incidentally, these two lieux-dits were used to make a tiny amount of 2010 sold direct to one Far Eastern client.) It has a succinct bouquet, timid at the moment, with light scents of white peach and citrus lemon. The palate is well-balanced with crisp acidity and pleasant spicy notes furnishing the correct, tightly-wound finish. But there is good structure here and impressive persistency. Drink now-2018. Wine is full of hyperbole, now more than ever, but not with respect to the exceptional wines of Jean-Marc Roulot, a grower that has consistently wowed my palate for several years. Although I have met him intermittently in London, this was the first time I had visited his winery on the outskirts of Meursault, just up the road from Coche-Dury. I wonder if their geographical proximity has something to do with stylistic similarities between the two addresses since nobody captures mineralite like these two artisans. It was a good job I penciled in an appointment this week under clement skies. As we descend to his spotlessly clean, relatively capacious cellar he informs me that it was under several inches of water after the previous week’s deluges in late May. Jean-Marc is an engaging vigneron, as one might expect from the former professional actor. I should put that in the present tense since he was about to film a French drama in Beaune, playing a gendarme rather than a winemaker. We tasted a handful of slightly older wines before broaching the 2011s. Moving on to a comprehensive run through his 2011s that had been bottled between January and April, I asked him for his sentiment toward the growing season. “I feel positive toward the vintage after the 2010,” he enthused, “as it is always difficult after such a lauded vintage. The main factor is that in 2011 the grapes were healthy and everything was clean. This was not the case in 2010, which needed some sorting. Maybe the wines are not as powerful, but they are more elegant and precise with better terroir expression. Many things during the season were similar to 2007: hot spring with early flowering; July not so good but flowering and harvest early. We began 24 August with the full team beginning on the 28 August. The 2011s have lower total acidity than 2010 but pH levels are a little better. Also, alcohol potential was around 0.8 degrees lower. I feel more comfortable with this level of alcohol, around 12.5%, than say 13.5% to 14%, as the terroir is expressed better.” Needless to say, Roulot’s 2011s lived up to my expectations as some of the finest white Burgundy wines in 2011, perhaps not quite right up with the very best I have encountered from this address, but utterly delicious and exquisitely crafted. Importer: Kermit Lynch, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.

This is their first village wine – several plots including Cos de les Baronnes (bought with Lafon). Something quite strongly scented – as though a scented candle. Very firm and bright sculpted fruit. Great fresh texture and some lemon and herbs. Tight. Nerveux. (JR)