2006 Vosne Romanee

Bizot's 2006 Vosne-Romanee displays even by his standards an unusual degree of caramelization; scents of singed wood, nutmeg, and creme brulee mingling with that of raspberry jam; and a strong sense of sweetness emerging on a silken-textured, buoyant palate. A tart berry edged and ginger spice offer some counterpoint to the preserved, caramelized, almost confectionary elements, and complements the sense of lift in the finish. This will by no means appeal equally to all tasters, given both its prominence of new oak and its near-delicacy, yet the wood seems to fit the personality more and to be less of a distraction than it was in the corresponding 2005. This is not only striking, it also represents an excellent example of the soothing side of its vintage. I would plan on enjoying it over the next 3-4 years, meaning among other things that waiting for the impressions of wood to subside would in my opinion be a fool's errand. Jean-Yves Bizot's wines characteristically strive for elegance and finesse, although his use of 100% new wood (albeit often in 350 liter capacity) can in my experience sometimes place a questionable burden on their often delicate fruit and frame. The wines are bottled directly from cask, barrel-by barrel, with very low dosages of sulfur, so they must be carefully stored, and there will be variation among wines that bear the same label. Unsurprisingly, Bizot claimed to have backed off on his already gentle fermentative regimen to encourage what he saw as the inherently graceful virtues of 2006. None of the wines were chaptalized (unlike in 2007) and none exceeds 12.5% alcohol. Bizot, incidentally, has reached and is apparently able to sustain for his tiny production some of the highest prices I have seen anywhere in Burgundy for non-premier cru wines. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524