2022 Batard Montrachet

Weighty but not heavy, the Chartron Bâtard opens with ripe apple aromas abundantly shaded with hints of spice, honey, and cream. The texture is dense and concentrated; some may find it a bit rich, especially after the crystalline purity of the wines further up the slope, but it will undoubtedly please true lovers of the appellation. Chartron farms 0.12 hectares of 60-year-old vines on the Chassagne side; the 2022 is still slightly closed for now, but in five years it should begin to open and drink well for decades.

The 2022 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a straightforward bouquet of white peach, citrus peel and light almond scents, though it doesn’t quite have the minerality of the best vintages I have tasted from Chartron. The palate is well balanced, with a fairly creamy entry tinged with almond and chai. A little oaky at the moment (around one-third), though that will be assimilated during élevage. Fine, but the aromatics need a bit more Burgundy imprimatur.