2020 Barolo Monvigliero

Coming from an esteemed site in Verduno, the 2020 Barolo Monvigliero is a dark ruby hue and opens to notes of ripe black raspberries, grenadine, candied roses, sweet soil, and fresh sage. Medium-bodied, it’s rounded and approachable up front before revealing ripe tannins and a savory saline finish with notes of fresh orange. It is another impressive and highly refined wine from the Scavino family to drink over the coming 15-20 years. Helmed by fourth generation winemaker Elisa Scavino, the estate owns and manages 30 hectares spanning eight of the 11 communes of the Barolo region and is based in Castiglione Falletto. Sadly, Elisa’s father Enrico Scavino passed away earlier this year at the age of 82. He was an active part of his family’s winery until his passing. Since 2007, they have implemented the use of a netted, submerged cap cylindrical system developed by Enrico that achieves a delicate extraction during fermentation. They have moved to slower, longer fermentation periods and, as of 2018, are solely utilizing large casks. In the vineyard, they pay great attention to the soils' compression, creating a sustainable ecosystem rich in oxygen and microorganisms and a sustainable approach. Their most recent acquisitions include those of Prapo and Ravera in 2015. Having lost their contract for Cannubi, they are no longer producing what was known as the Barolo Carobric, of which the Cannubi fruit was a major component. I continue to be impressed with the direction these wines have been taking toward a more expressive and pure sense of place, with wonderful diversity across the portfolio. I had the chance to taste the wines for this report twice.

Harmonious, well-structure and layered. The nose shows aromas of wild strawberries, sour cherries, dried herbs, crushed stones and flowers. It’s medium- to full-bodied with finely grained tannins, yet it is still firm at this stage supported by fresh acidity. Precise with a dense but juicy texture and harmonious structure. Long finish. Try after 2028.

Scavino’s 2020 Barolo Monvigliero is bright and aromatically effusive, as Barolos from this site tend to be, but on the palate, it is quite a bit more reserved. It will be interesting to see if the 2020 emerges with time in bottle, as today, it is dominated by fierce tannins. Dried fruit, tobacco, mint and worn-in leather linger. Ideally, I would like to see more Monvigliero sensuality here.