1995 Brunello di Montalcino La Cerbaiola
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Tasting notes
The 1995 Brunello di Montalcino is the first wine in this tasting that is fully mature, although it has enough brightness and depth to drink well for at least another few years. Sweet tobacco, licorice, anise, game, and dried cherries add nuance on the aromatic, perfumed finish. At this point, there is not much upside from cellaring bottles further. "We had quite a bit of rain in August that year. When we returned to Montalcino after vacation, on September 2, the grapes were still green. From there, conditions improved and we picked on the 20th. Those who picked earlier weren't so lucky," Giulio Salvioni told me.
Critic scores
Average Score
Robert Parker
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
A superbly complex Brunello di Montalcino, Salvioni's 1995 offers scents of truffles, roasted meats, hickory smoke, dried herbs, and spice box. This velvety, rich, full-bodied, moderately tannic, sexy, opulently-styled offering is a hedonistic as well as intellectual turn-on. Ripe and complex, with multiple nuances and dimensions, its suppleness suggests early drinkability. Consume it over the next 7-10 years. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200
Full garnet. Powerful, penetrating nose of red fruits and warming alcohol. Concentrated and full on the palate, with sweet plum and raspberry fruit complicated by notes of licorice and spice. More muscular than the usual style of the house but with important prospects. Rather backward at the moment, with tannins that need to round out. Giulio Salvioni is one of the most reliable producers in the entire zone, with consistently excellent wines since 1985, and this appears to be his best Brunello since 1988.