2011 Chablis Vaudesir

A surprisingly sweetly-suggestive, high-toned nose of pineapple, orange rind and nutmeg wafted by ocean breeze greets one from the glass of Fevre 2011 Chablis Vaudesir. It offers a lusciously juicy, sweetly-citric palate impression mouthwateringly mingled with clam stock and transparent to nuances of spices, toasted nuts, salt and stone. Soothing and elegant, clear, delicate and refined, this really grows on me as it opens up in the glass. I’m tempted to suggest drinking this by 2018 even if it will “live” longer, and, frankly, it is so expressive now that one should not under any circumstances forego its immediate company. Didier Seguier and his team (consult previous Wine Advocate reports on Chablis for much more about their strikingly successful methods) began picking already on September 20, 2012 and, with allowance for two days break due to rain, finished on October 2. Yields, especially in the upper classificatory echelons, were low – typically between 28 and 35 hectoliters per hectare (though in one instance a mere 18!) depending on cru. “The wines,” says Seguier – who’s obviously very bullish on them – “are consequently ripe, concentrated, and plenty rich, with natural alcohol between 12.8-13.2% and acidity as ample as that of 2010. They have the same level of minerality as the 2010s, too, but are even a little more concentrated.” While the 2011 harvest here – which began already at the end of August – broke all but 2003’s record, Seguier was at pains to point out that this is virtually where the similarities between those two vintages end, and that indeed, it was 2012, not 2011, that brought extreme heat – though then only in mid-August. Most of the Fevre 2012s did not finish malo until May, which Seguier attributes to the musts’ low pHs, a feature he points to as an index of their relatively high – hence felicitous – ratio of tartaric to malic acids. The premier crus were set to be bottled through the autumn; the grand crus in December or January. Fevre is completing the process of converting its grand crus to a biodynamic viticultural regimen and will soon commence that transition on the Left Bank. (Based on quite consistent pricing in recent years, I have taken the liberty of inserting retail benchmarks based on other recent vintages, which also permits readers to see which Fevre bottlings are typically offered stateside.) Importer: Henriot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6706

Bright, pale lemon-yellow. Steely aromas of grapefruit, lemon and mint. Quite rich and sweet, with a slightly high-toned character, but has enough acidity to maintain its verve and balance. This very solaire site was a strong positive factor in the cooler 2011 vintage, noted Seguier. Pliant and very long on the aftertaste. A splendid showing today, although Seguier noted that the 2011 grand crus, which were bottled in December of 2012, are just now beginning to emerge from a closed phase.

Hint of smoke alongside crisp apple and citrus fruit. Long, dense finish – you can feel great potential here, and there’s some development already. (RH)