2010 Volnay Champans

The 2010 Volnay Champans presents a deeper, richer and more powerful expression of fruit than the Mitans. It was also made with 100% destemmed fruit. Here the aromas and flavors are on the darker side of red, but it is more the wine’s muscle and textural plushness that distinguishes it. Sweet spices, red berries and licorice wrap around the plush finish. This is another great effort. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2035. Etienne de Montille describes 2010 as similar to 2002, but with less acidity. He adds that 2010 is a vintage where the end result was less apparent early on than years like 2006 and 2007, where the wines turned out pretty much as originally expected. According to de Montille, there isn’t a huge difference between the Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuits. That may be true here, but in my view it is not the case in a broader context. De Montille tends to pick early, and his wines in the cellar also finish their malos fairly quickly, which is how things played out in 2010 as well. Most of the 2010s had been racked into steel at the time of my visit, except for the Corton Clos du Roi, Clos Vougeot, Vosne-Romanee Malconsorts, Vosne-Romanee Malconsorts Christiane, which I tasted from barrel. The harvest started on September 20 and ran through the 28th. Some wines were lightly chaptalized. De Montille planned to start bottling in January 2012 with a handful of the entry-level bottlings. I also tasted the 2009s. I will have more to say in our April issue, but for now I can share that the wines have developed beautifully. De Montille’s decision to pick early certainly seems to have paid off. Importer: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808

(100% destemmed; 25% new oak): Good medium red. Reticent, pure aromas of raspberry, red cherry, pomegranate and menthol. Chewy and stylish in the mouth, with sexy floral lift to the red fruit and spice flavors. Good weight and sappiness here. Finishes firmly tannic, with enticing lingering fruit.