2016 Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos Mezes Maly

Oily texture first, then it turns super youthful, bright and cheerful with pure and vibrant lemons, acacia flowers and honey. This is quite complex, nimble and elegant with lots of verve. Simply irresistible in its youth. Really effortless. Drink or hold.

The 2016 Mézes Mály Great First Growth Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos, which contains 180.9g/L residual sugar, is the one cuvée whose nose I could not quite work out at first. It needs a few minutes to really coalesce, eventually offering toffee apple, adhesive, lanolin and wood resin scents. Personally, I prefer the Betsek and then the Nyulászó on the nose. The harmonious palate is business as usual, featuring pure botrytized fruit, a superb bed of acidity, and orange peel, marmalade and a touch of lemon sherbet toward the persistent finish, where a welcome touch of bitterness lingers in the mouth. Maybe the nose just needs time.

Great first growth. The first vintage since 2009. 1,345 50-cl bottles produced. TA 10.7 g/l, RS 180.9 g/l. Mid gold colour. Honey, honeysuckle and candied apricots on the nose. Massive concentration with fleshy, sweet fruit on the palate. So youthful, with a sweeter, rounder mouthfeel than the other single-vineyard wines. Unctuous until the inevitable acidity cuts through, but this still finishes with a sweet kick. Honey, marmalade and blood orange. Superb! (TP)