1993 Hermitage

A note on the 1993 red Hermitage. This vintage, which is generally horrible (many producers declassified because the fruit was so rotten), is a surprising success in a few cellars. Chave's 1993, which will probably be dumped by retailers because of the vintage's reputation, is an excellent wine. Some acidity does poke through in the finish, but the wine exhibits plenty of pure, ripe, black and red fruits that are neither vegetal nor moldy. It possesses good density, medium body, and appears to be one of the two finest Hermitages of this justifiably maligned vintage (the other being the remarkable Ermitage Le Pavillon from Chapoutier). Chave's 1993 should be drunk over the next 12-15 years. It is not surprising that such high quality was achieved because Chave declassified over two-thirds of his crop. Longtime Chave enthusiasts will be thrilled to hear that Chave's spectacular 1995s are among the greatest successes in the Rhone Valley. Furthermore, the 1994s, now that they are in bottle, are even stronger than my commentary last year suggested. Importers: Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800 and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524

Modestly saturated medium red color. Quickly developing, rather rustic aromas of leather, herbs, game and coffee. Possesses decent sweetness and concentration—a triumph in this thoroughly miserable vintage in the Northern Rhône Valley. Finishes with light, slightly tongue-drying tannins. This was 11% potential alcohol chaptalized to about 12% in bottle.