2023 Hollenpfad im Muhlenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs
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Dönnhoff's 2023 Roxheimer Höllenpfad im Mühlenberg Riesling trocken GG is similar to the Höllenpfad 1G but significantly more intense and fascinatingly pure in its concentrated and elegant fruit that intermingles with herbal and almost smoky as well as citric and phenolic notes. It's remarkably complex. Fruit comes from vines more than 50 years old grown in sandstone soils. Dense but juicy and refined in its acidity and salinity, this is an elegant and balanced yet pure, refined and layered Mühlberg Riesling with a playful minerality and serious structure. This full-bodied yet never alcoholic wine develops a long, intense and salivating finish. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in August and October 2024.
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Average Score
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
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The 2023 Riesling Roxheimer Höllenpfad im Mühlberg Grosses Gewächs comes from the core parcel of this red Permian sandstone site, made separately as a GG from 2017 onwards. This was made in old, neutral Doppelstück . Gorgeous savor unites fern, yarrow and tansy, all tingling amidst citrus and a gentle creaminess. Immediate concentration and fluidity characterize the palate, and the citrus impression almost attains a touch of lemon oil, still holding these savory, herbal notions. The 2023 has a sinuous shape, great fluidity, beautiful stoniness and tautness, absolute clarity and direction but with a ton of charm. (Bone-dry)