NV Barolo Brunate Vertical (2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020 – ex Rino Fontana)

2010 Barolo Brunate The 2010 Barolo Brunate comes from a small stash acquired from a collector friend in Italy and is 100% Brunate, as opposed to the commercial release of this wine, which is in reality 85% Brunate and 15% Le Coste. Italian regulations allow producers to blend in fruit from other vineyards (up to 15%) and still list the name of the main vineyard in the label. Don't ask me why this is. In France, a vineyard designate must be entirely from a single site, but we are in Italy here. As for the wine, itself, the 2010 Barolo Brunate is a towering monument to the glory of Nebbiolo in this magnificent vintage. Although it is naturally very young, the profoundness of the 2010 Brunate requires no real explanation. 98Pts Antonio Galloni 2011 Barolo Brunate The 2011 Barolo Brunate has finally begun to awaken from its post-bottling slumber. Surprisingly open for a young Rinaldi Barolo, the 2011 is round, spherical and supple. Leather, smoke, menthol and tobacco wrap around a plump, juicy core of dark Brunate fruit. The 2011 is almost shockingly accessible. The breadth and creaminess of Brunate is evident, but at the same time, the Brunate is also clearly marked by the ripeness of the vintage. It will be interesting to see if the pedigree of Brunate comes to the fore with further time in bottle. At this point, the Barolo Tre Tine is fresher and better balanced. 92Pts Antonio Galloni 2012 Barolo Brunate The 2012 Barolo Brunate is powerful and dense in the glass, but also quite expressive for such a young wine. Dark, and brooding, with fabulous mid-palate richness and depth, the 2012 packs a serious punch. Readers will find a Barolo that brings together a slightly slender, cool-climate sense of structure with good early approachability, all of which make the 2012 quite appealing even in its youth. A blast of sweet red cherry, plum, licorice, leather and spices leaves a strong and lasting impression. 94Pts Antonio Galloni 2013 Barolo Brunate Rinaldi's 2013 Barolo Brunate is dark, sensual and super-inviting. A wine of restraint, the 2013 is endowed with terrific depth and tons of personality. At the same time, the 2013 is not an explosive wine (like the 2010), but rather a Barolo that speaks to total finesse. Dark cherry, plum, lavender, menthol, violet and hard candy inflections give the 2013 much of its exceptional beauty and resonance. The wine's sheer inner sweetness makes it nearly impossible to put down the glass. 97+Pts Antonio Galloni 2014 Barolo Brunate A Barolo of midweight structure and persistence, the 2014 Brunate comes across as a wine that will drink well with minimal cellaring. The 2014 offers fine balance in a decidedly gracious, understated style. Naturally, the dimension and breadth of the very best years aren't quite there. 92Pts Antonio Galloni 2015 Barolo Brunate Rinaldi's Barolo Brunate is refined and light on its feet in 2015, with a bit less structure and overall depth than is the norm. That is not at all surprising, as the 2015 Brunate has always been a relatively light wine by Rinaldi standards. Dark red cherry, plum, licorice, sage and balsamic notes shape this expressive yet understated Barolo from Rinaldi 93Pts Antonio Galloni 2016 Barolo Brunate The 2016 Barolo Brunate is a tightly wound wine with striking inner perfume, sweetness and energy. Deep, dense and powerful, the 2016 exudes a sense of classical austerity that will thrill Rinaldi lovers. I remember tasting it during bottling and thinking that Beppe Rinaldi would be so very proud of his daughters for making this wine, a Barolo that so vividly captures the heart and soul of what these wines are all about. The 2016 is going to need a number of years to come into its own, but it holds immense promise. 97+Pts Antonio Galloni 2017 Barolo Brunate The 2017 Barolo Brunate is a dark, powerful wine. A huge swath of tannins gives the Brunate its feeling of gravitas. Readers will have to be patient with the 2017, as it is going to need a number of years to come together. Dark cherry fruit, lavender, sage, licorice, spice and earthy notes build into a crescendo of aromas and flavors that is just captivating. The 2017 finishes with tremendous substance and intensity, both of which bode so well for the future. 95Pts Antonio Galloni 2018 Barolo Brunate Rinaldi's 2018 Barolo Brunate is one of the more satisfying wines of the vintage. Austere, medium in body and classic in feel, with that extra bit of textural resonance that is such a Brunate signature, the 2018 has real patential. Dark cherry, melted road tar, tobacco, spice, menthol, sage and licorice all build in the glass. The 2018 is going to need a few years to soften and start hitting its stride, but all the ingredients are there. It's a powerhouse, that much is certain. 95Pts Antonio Galloni 2019 Barolo Brunate The 2019 Barolo Brunate soars out of the glass with a dazzling array of dark, balsamic-infused aromas and flavors that are so typical of Brunate. Sage, menthol, melted road tar, lavender and dark plum all build in this rich and deeply textured Brunate. With superb balance, the Brunate is shaping up beautifully. There is an exotic wildness to the 2019 that is hard to fully capture in words. Here, too the tannins are present, but also very refined. Time in the glass releases the breadth of Brunate nicely. 96Pts Antonio Galloni 2020 Barolo Brunate The 2020 Barolo Brunate is stellar. I especially admire its mix of soaring intensity and energy, and yet the wine also. remains light on its feet. Ethereal, nuanced and classy, the Brunate is a super-classic Barolo with the refinement of the present day. Dark fruit, spice, leather, menthol and licorice build into the potent, substantial finish, with notes of minerals and blood orange that linger. 95Pts Antonio Galloni