2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento
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Planted in 1990 on sandy soils with marine sediments, the 2016 Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva Poggio Al Vento is the current release, with the 2019 scheduled to follow next year. The nose is persistent and savory, with tobacco, dried cherries, red plum, and baking spice. Full-bodied, it has ripe, rich tannins and a hearty texture, with blood orange notes carrying the finish and giving it energy. It should drink well for 10-15 years. Drink 2026-2040. Col d’Orcia is owned and managed by Count Francesco Marone Cinzano. His father arrived in 1973 in Montalcino, where he established the winery. In 2010, Francesco moved to organic certification. Located in the south, just north of the Orcia river, their property has greater exposure to the air coming off the ocean and the Mediterranean climate, so they are always the first in the region to harvest. The vineyards feature a high concentration of clay soils, with a vein of marine sediment that runs through the property. The Vigna Nastagio has tight clay soils with high pH, creating concentration and freshness. Poggio al Vento comes from a 7-hectare plot from which they select the best fruit for their Riserva bottlings.
Critic scores
Average Score
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
James Suckling
More reviews and scores
The organic Col d'Orcia 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento (in a medium-heavy glass bottle) is quite beautiful, truth be told, with a unique sense of direct power, medium-rich texture and evolved fruit. This Riserva takes us back in time to one of the most successful vintages in Montalcino history. The bouquet is distinguished by dried fruit, rose potpourri and roasted chestnut husk. The tannins are resolved, and the wine ends on a softly silky note. Some 25,600 bottles will hit the market in January 2024.
Classic to the core, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al Vento takes its time in the glass, slowly gaining in depth and nuance as dusty roses and leather give way to dried strawberries, then hints of cedar and spiced blood orange. It’s elegant and refined, with polished red berry fruits and silken textural waves contrasted by sour orange notes. A core of vibrant acidity maintains a wonderfully fresh persona. This finishes long and staining yet also youthfully structured. A coating of fine tannins grips the remnants of red currant and spice. Ultimately, the 2016 Poggio al Vento leaves the taster longing for another sip while lamenting its impossibly youthful state. It will be many years before we can fully enjoy the depth and complexity currently in reserve, but I hope to be there when the day finally comes. (EG)
Will be released in January 2024. Lustrous mid to deep ruby with only the beginning of orange. Some development on the nose but otherwise still very curled up. Suave and concentrated and with fine, tangy acidity and stunning balance. Finely chiselled tannins and sleek yet concentrated fruit on the finish. Classy stuff, its 15% alcohol indiscernible. (WS)