1870 Cos d'Estournel

Tasted at Lafite (alongside the Lafite Rothschild 1988, which was delicious but did not overshadow this amazing wine). Ethereal, if a wine can truly be described that way. Gossamer fine tannins, a blush of raspberry and blackberry fruits, giving way to undergrowth, white truffle, barely-there saffron and cold ash. It had been held in the cellars at Lafite for as long as the current generation can remember, so had not travelled more than 300m from its site of production. There is no realistic drink by date on this wine, and the blend is also unknown, although almost certainly dominant Cabernet Sauvignon (possibly with Malbec, Castet, Cabernet Franc alongside, perhas a trace of Merlot). The Basque Errazu family had been owners of Cos since just the year before, buying from London banker Charles-Cecil Martyns in 1869. I hardly need to add that the score means nothing - it is just a number to tell you that drinking this wine provided an exceptional moment in time.