2017 Mercurey Piece 15

A cuvée produced from 15 small, old-vine parcels growing on calcium-rich soils that Lorenzon considers his finest plots, the 2017 Mercurey 1er Cru Pièce 15 is an extraordinary wine that I'm certain would perform very well in a blind tasting of grand cru whites from Puligny-Montrachet and Aloxe-Corton. Wafting from the glass with a beautiful bouquet of lemon and mandarin oil, wheat toast, crisp green orchard fruit and subtle hints of confit citrus, the wine is full-bodied, deep and layered, with a seamlessly multidimensional core, striking concentration without weight and a long, precise finish. It's a brilliant bottling that smashes the glass ceilings that have so long been imposed on the Côte Chalonnaise's whites.