2017 Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs

Full bottle 1,601 g. The most recent release of Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs.  I tasted this first time around in a blind line-up of 20-odd sparkling wines (mostly champagne) so as not to be distracted by labels and brands. It stood out by sheer force of power and determination. A towering, dramatic wine. Rich in a lactic, sour-cream, cream-cheese kind of way. Rich and broad of beam. When it was very cold, it was all spine and leesiness; a citrus-shocked curdle of sourdough, cheese, baked cream. But as it warmed in the glass, and over a couple of days, the wine kept changing. It relented a little, showing a more delicate side – glimmers of apple blossom, soft pear, satin texture. There is absolutely no hurry to drink this. In fact, I'd probably pop it in the cellar (in the darkest corner you can find, because they've foolishly decided to bottle it in a clear-glass bottle, which makes no sense for a wine of this type) rather than drink it now. (TC)