2022 Seleccion de Parcelas Los Primos Pinot Noir

Aged for 14 months in 41% new 300-liter barrels, the 2022 Selección de Parcelas Los Primos Pinot Noir opens with an exquisite nose of red fruits, dried flowers, oolong tea and blood orange. On the palate, it elegantly balances vibrant energy with a slow-moving saturation, all expressed with crystal-clear fidelity. It ends with a saline, chalky, swelling finish framed by fine, structuring tannins with remarkable length. This was one of many highlights within an impressively consistent lineup where it was difficult to pick favorites. After distinguished tenures at Errázuriz, revered enologist Francisco "Pancho" Baettig and Commercial Director Carlos de Carlos launched a project in the Traiguén province of Malleco Valley. It revolves around the Viñedos Los Suizos vineyard—named as a playful nod to the Swiss heritage of both owners—planted on volcanic soil in 2013 with 6.4 hectares of Chardonnay and nine hectares of Pinot Noir, both derived from French clonal material to avoid the inconsistencies of Chilean massal selections. Readers familiar with Pancho's work at Errázuriz will not be surprised that the entire lineup is superbly executed and has quickly become a reference point. The roster is divided between the Vino de Viñedo line, which provides an overview of the vineyard as a whole, and the Selección de Parcelas bottlings, which zoom in to showcase a selection of blocks. Chardonnay undergoes barrel fermentation, and bâtonnage is used in the early stages of élevage. The first sulfur additions typically occur in the summer following the harvest. Maturation usually lasts around 13 to 14 months in approximately 35% new 400-liter barrels. Pinot Noirs incorporate about 20% whole-cluster fermentations and are aged in roughly 50% new 300-liter barrels with a slightly longer élevage. Complementing the Burgundian varieties is a newer and equally impressive Cabernet Sauvignon program based in Maule. For this line, the duo collaborates with a group of growers in Coronel de Maule who own century-old País vineyards that have gradually been grafted to Cabernet Sauvignon since the 1980s. Since Baettig's interest and involvement, this progress has accelerated, resulting in more vines being converted and the outright purchase of one site, showcased in the stunning Los Padrinos bottling. The remaining vines contribute to the Los Compadres, which boasts a unique profile that blends a vibrant, umami-like richness reminiscent of Mediterranean wines with a coniferous quality I associate with California's Santa Cruz Mountains.

Floral, expressive nose of black cherries and spice. The palate has subtle green hints and nice detailed spiciness, and vivid fleshy black cherry and blackcurrant fruit. Supple and lively with real intensity and freshness. Concentrated, with lots of ageing potential. A beautiful wine.

Gosh. Another incredible and incredibly terroir-defined wine from Francisco Baettig – each time I pull the cork on one of these wines (one of his wines) I am amazed and enthused in equal measure. This is almost shockingly original. Essence of walnut (as if made by a parfumier’s concentrating the flavours almost to the point of caricature), freshly popped popcorn with a gentle melting of beurre au fleur de sel, roasted corn on the cob and assorted freshly plucked and de-hulked red berry fruits – raspberry and wild strawberry, but with some of the additional freshness of redcurrant. There’s a gentle spiciness too and a little touch of smoke – as if one of the corn kernels has caught on the oil in the pan. On the attack this is rich and viscous but very subtly so and it is also very layered with the ultra-fine grained but very evident tannins rolling themselves between the levels. I love this incredible wine that needs to be experienced to be understood (words don’t really capture it very well). Out of interest I tasted this first alongside a famous-name 1er Cru Pommard from the same vintage (well, the same year) – it’s chalk and cheese, Los Primos wins hands down