2021 Quinta do Noval Nacional

As to the tiny production 2021 Vintage Port Nacional, it's a much more inward, reserved, concentrated effort that demands bottle age but clearly brings another level of density and elegance over the classic cuvée. Ripe black fruits, iron, graphite, liquid violet, and spice notes define the bouquet, and like the classic Quinta Do Noval, it takes lots of air to shed its baby fat and offer a hint of the complexity that will develop with cellaring. It too has a semblance of the 2019 and shows a fresher, focused style that's backed up by gorgeous extract, mid-palate density, and length – albeit, if you're looking for a massive, opulent style of Port, this might not be your best bet. Regardless, this has everything: purity, complexity, texture, balance, concentration, and length. A stunning Port, it deserves 10-15 years in the cellar and will evolve gracefully for three quarters of a century.

From a 1.7-ha plot of ungrafted vines at the heart of the estate, with very low yields: 12–15 hl/ha compared with an average across the estate of 28 hl/ha. Aged 18 months in 2,500-litre oak and chestnut vats. RS 104 g/l. Inky black core with narrow dark-purple rim. Intense aroma of elderberry fruit, reminiscent of tiny dark berries. As well as sweeter black fruit than in the Noval 2021, it has a thicker texture, more structure and concentration, and feels deeper and chewier. Apparently this wine ages much more slowly than the Noval vintage port. Quite raw at the moment in terms of the structure but the alcohol is well integrated. Finely dry on the finish. (JH)

There’s such a purity of fruit here of sliced ripe cherries and crushed blackberries with blueberries, as well as fresh flowers. Medium- to full-bodied with ultra-fine tannins that run the length of the wine. Really polished and silky. Medium sweet with pretty grip and presence. Reminds me of the perfect 2011 but with a little less concentration. Drink after 2030.