2016 Hors Categorie Syrah

Good medium red. Tight but already incredibly complex nose offers classic northern Rhône (Hermitage?) scents of dark raspberry, licorice, black pepper and brown spices. Robust and densely packed but also savory, smooth and magically light on its feet, with its flavors of crushed blueberry and blackberry, spices and saline minerality conveying remarkable urgency for a wine with a pH of 4.1. Finishes with serious but harmonious tannins and outstanding palate-staining length and lift. This remarkable site, as wild and Old World in appearance as any in Washington, is worked with a winch owing to its steepness and produces barely 1.5 tons per acre of fruit in a good year. Christophe Baron, who vinifies all of his wines with wild yeasts, does a cool fermentation (never higher than 85 degrees F.) and ages this wine in a combination of mostly demi-muids , the youngest of which was third use, and some barriques. A knockout. (from a mostly south-facing slope in a bucolic valley in the foothills of the Blue Mountains, planted in 2011 at an altitude between 1,350 and 1,450 feet and at a slope reaching as steep as 60 degrees)

The 2016 Syrah is from an up and coming terroir located on the north fork of the Walla Walla River, in Oregon, and comes from two steep hillside slopes on broken basalt soils. Not destemmed and brought up in all neutral demi-muids, it has a Côte Brune-like style in its smoked red and black fruits, crushed violets, cold fireplace, bloody meats, and ground pepper aromas and flavors. Concentrated, medium to full-bodied, incredibly layered, and pure, it has an ultra-classic, mineral-laced Syrah style that's just magical to behold. Give bottles 2-4 years of bottle age and enjoy over the following 10-15. The Hors Categorie Syrah comes from the up and coming North Fork region of the Walla Walla AVA, in Oregon, which was discovered in 2003 by Christophe Baron. The site for this cuvee was purchased by Baron in 2004, planted in 2011, and his first release was in 2014.