2017 Hohenmorgen Trocken Edition G.C.
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Tasting notes
Lots of tropical-fruit and spice aromas here, making for a ripe but marvelously balanced impression; this is bursting with dried cloves, saffron, cinnamon, five spice and mangoes, papaya and pineapple. Tannic and foursquare, this is a juicy, full-bodied GG with enormous power and structure, but a gently reductive edge filing through the long finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink now or hold.
Critic scores
Average Score
James Suckling
David Schildknecht, Vinous
More reviews and scores
Mint, sage, peach kernel and iodine make for a fascinatingly herbal and mineral nose. But the palate testifies to this site’s warmth in being relatively rounded for a 2017, even plush, and featuring an almost pulpy sense of ripe white peach and mirabelle . The lusciously lingering finish is marked more by almond, vanilla and musky inner-mouth floral perfume rather than by the mineral or cooling green herb aspects that the nose led me to anticipate. I suspect that this will have much more to say for itself after it’s been bottled and rested. (Re-tasting the 2016 from bottle, with its almost spooky sense of energy and its uncanny alliance of creaminess and brightness, I can only suggest that you make it your purchasing priority.)