2017 Felseneck Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Super clear and flinty on the stony and herbal-scented but still reductive and even untamed nose, the 2017 (Bockenau) Felseneck Riesling GG is a rich and powerful, pretty intense and persistent Riesling with a long and powerful, very salty and elegant, highly promising finish. This is a very deep and tensioned Riesling with lots of power but also finesse and elegance. Promising. Tasted in July 2019.
Critic scores
Average Score
Jancis Robinson MW
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
In no previous vintage has Felseneck found Stromberg breathing down its neck to the same degree; but Schäfer-Fröhlich’s flagship rises to the challenge and once again emerges with top honors. Penetratingly pungent but also hauntingly, bittersweetly-perfumed notes fill the nose: grapefruit, white currant, struck flint, violet and iris. The satiny but fundamentally firm, indeed, almost implacably dense palate presents a vibrantly tangy welter of citrus with crunchy tart berry and coriander seed, smoky, fusil and otherwise mineral nuances, and striking inner-mouth florality, all underlain by wet stone. Savor of fleur de sel improbably paired with bitter chocolate, adds to a mouthwatering, vibratory, dizzyingly complex finish that just won’t quit.
The Felseneck and I have changed, so subtly that hardly anybody has noticed. The Felseneck does not appear quite so extreme anymore in its expression of funky sulphur aromas. In exchange my sensory perception has become more tolerant for the wilder side of herbaceous vigour. A rocky minerality carves its way into the palate, fruit covered by stone dust, a cool herbal breeze takes charge of the finish. The big polariser! (MS)