2006 Materium Cabernet Sauvignon

Virtually all Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2006 Materium boasts complex notes of lead pencil shavings, creme de cassis, licorice, new saddle leather, and loamy soil undertones. The wine possesses extraordinary purity and texture as well as full-bodied power, elegance, sweet, velvety tannins, and impeccable balance. It can be drunk now and over the next 25+ years. www.materium.com

Deep, bright ruby-red. Very ripe, soil-driven aromas of currant, blueberry, black cherry, menthol, smoke and tobacco, complicated by mint and creosote. Densely packed and very ripe but with a suave character and harmonious acidity. Smoke, mint and rocky notes complicate the dark fruit flavors. Finishes with big, broad tannins and excellent length. This 100%-cabernet sauvignon wine, made from the Weitz Vineyard above Dalla Valle, has a pH under 3.6 with alcohol of 15.5%, according to winemaker Thomas Brown.

Full medium ruby. Darker fruit aromas of black cherry and currant complicated by mocha, menthol and flowers; this smells lush. At once denser and more elegant than the '05, with a distinctly primary, youthfully medicinal character. With its impressive stuffing, firm acids and solid tannic spine, this should age slowly and well. Finishes with captivating chocolate and spice notes. The pH here is a healthy 3.65, compared to 3.8 in the 2005. Clearly a wine to watch.