1997 Chateau Rayas Vertical: 2005-2010

A question mark hangs over this lovely wine, like the Nerthe 2002 white, generously donated by Michael and Marie-Thérèse Dobbs-Higginson from their cellar not too far from La Verrière. The bottle of Rayas had lost its distinctive triangular neck label with the vintage on it and, since I was not present when it was opened, I cannot be 100% sure it was the 1997 as Michael suggested. It certainly tasted fully mature and I would not be surprised if it turned out to be older. Deep rust red colour. Pungent, rich, so long. Yes there was a great deal of sweetness – and gaminess – but the finish really zipped it up and kept the whole experience refreshing. Admirable. (JR)

This lighter-styled wine appears diluted in terms of color, but it possesses surprising quantities of sweet black cherry fruit intermixed with hints of resin, licorice, and tobacco. It is a medium to full-bodied Chateauneuf with far more flavor and intensity than its light-ish colors suggest. The wine requires consumption over the next 5-8 years. Importers: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173 and Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

Full red. Spicy aromas of framboise, leather and pepper; very rich but fresher than the Pignan. Thick but lively on the palate; very suave and rich. Not nearly as open today as the above. Peppery finish displays excellent persistence. This is very strong for the vintage.