2004 Barbaresco Cotta Vigna Brichet

Good deep red. Bright blackberry and cassis fruit notes complicated by dried flowers, mocha and nutty oak. Suave on entry, then fine-grained and juicy in the middle; a step up from the Pajore in lift and length. Classic mineral and menthol notes carry through to the lingering finish.

Sottimano's 2004 Barbaresco Cottà is perhaps slightly less elegant than the Currà, but it reveals a more immediate personality in its powerful, fruit-driven style, with sweet dark fruit, toasted oak and mentholated, balsamic notes. Despite its generous ripe fruit this wine has plenty of length and supporting structure underneath. It is fairly approachable today, but should also age gracefully.

Sottimano’s 2004 Barbaresco Cotta is perhaps slightly less elegant than the Curra, but it reveals a more immediate personality in its powerful, fruit-driven style, with sweet dark fruit, toasted oak and mentholated, balsamic notes. Despite its generous ripe fruit this wine has plenty of length and supporting structure underneath. It is fairly approachable today, but should also age gracefully. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022. From top to bottom, this is an impressive set of wines from Sottimano, a property that continues its rapid ascent into the top echelon of the region's finest estates. Andrea Sottimano's wines have always been about potential but with his 2004s he has produced the first of what will hopefully be many important vintages. Sottimano loves Burgundy and his 2004 Barbarescos are clearly informed by the passion he has for those wines. In 2004 there is also a Barbaresco Riserva from the oldest vines at Pajorè and Cottà, but that wine won't see the light of day until next year at the earliest. It is a special wine that will be well worth the wait. In the meantime there is no shortage of outstanding offerings from which to choose. Over the last few vintages the estate has reduced the level of new oak and improved the quality of its cooperage, both of which have given the wines greater transparency. After alcoholic fermentation the wines are racked into French oak barrels (25% new) for the malolactic fermentations which are kept long, as Sottimano believes this gives the wines greater richness and complexity. Once the malos are finished, the wines are racked into used barrels where they continue to age prior to being assembled and bottled. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411